Five days in Andorra – with no snow

Earlier in the year we granted La Chica’s wish to celebrate her birthday by climbing the Eiffel Tower in Paris. So when El Chico’s seventh birthday came up in October, we gave him the chance to choose the destination.

El Chico’s main Birthday desire was to throw a snowball; neither of our kids have ever seen snow. His shortlist was down to Alps and the Pyrenees when he heard about Andorra. Being only 468 km2 and the 16th smallest country in the world appealed to his love of eccentricities, so it was decided. That’s where we would go.

As the months progressed, it became evident that we were going to be there too early for snow. We glued ourselves to weather forecasts, asked around and made a decision to hire a car so we could drive to snow wherever it may fall. When the birthday finally came around, the closest snow we could drive to was three countries and more than a day’s drive away.

So there we were in Andorra, a country that revolves around the snow season, with no snow on the horizon. The hillsides are covered in ski slopes, our apartment came with a ski storage facility and many restaurants and businesses remain shut during the non-snow season.

We weren’t sure what to expect, or what activities we would be able to do, but from the moment we arrived Andorra proved itself to be one of the highlights of our travels so far. It was cold, but the sun shone almost the whole time we were there.

So, what is it about Andorra that carved itself into our hearts, without a skerrick of snow?

Walking

Andorra’s walking trails are some of the best we’ve come across in Europe. There are long trails traversing the entire country, there are smaller trails leading up to alpine lakes and there are trails that connect the towns and villages. They are all well-marked and take you into the hidden heart of Andorra. We did a variety of walks. All of them magical in their own way. Our two favourites were:

Parc Natural de la Vall de Sorteny

This was a tip we were given by a local and it was incredible. From here you can take a number of walks. We chose the one labelled ‘Botanical Walk’. Heading up the hill beside a steady stream with a number of waterfalls, there were options to divert from the wider fire trail and head onto rocky single trails that lead you into the forest and along the streams. There are towering sculptures and panoramic views. If not for our intense hunger, we would have stayed longer. The kids played creating cairns and nature art and loved exploring the narrow trails.

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Vall d’Inces

I stumbled across this trail on my morning run and fell in love with it. So after running it in the morning, I brought the family back and we walked it with a picnic lunch. We took a different route up to the campground and the kids giggled as they hopped over the board walks crossing the streams. After our picnic at the top of the world, the kids climbed and played on the rocks while we sat on the grass and soaked up the sunshine. The air up there was clear and the sun shone brightly through it. All in all it was a perfect day out.

Rock-climbing

For a birthday present for El Chico, we booked a lesson at Bloc Cafe Indoor Rockclimbing. We had a private lesson for the four of us with an excellent instructor who gave taught us some useful techniques we wouldn’t have known otherwise. He also gave us a number of  tips for places to explore in Andorra. Although I’m definitely not a natural, both the kids took to rock climbing like ducks to water. They then attempted to climb every rock surface they could find in Andorra. They’re hooked. If we had stayed longer, we would have booked some outdoor climbing. Something for next time!

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Lookouts

The Mirador Roc del Quer is a spectacular lookout that is well known by travellers to Andorra. It was worth dealing with the crowds even in the off-season, as it was a mesmerising sight looking down on the valley of Canillo. The sun was at that golden angle that makes everything glow. I bet it is also a gorgeous spot at dawn, another thing for next time.

We found a number of other lookouts on our drives around Andorra. Each of them had their own beauty and woah-factor. Sometimes we even just stopped at random moments on the side of the road for a look. Andorra is a truly picturesque country from every angle.

Shopping

Andorra is a Co-Principality ruled by two princes. One Prince is the President of France and the other is the Bishop of Urgell in Spain. The unusual form of Government in Andorra has led to some similarly unusual tax implications. Up until 2016 there was no Income Tax or Capital Gains Tax. At this stage Andorrans are still without Value Added Tax (VAT) found in many other EU nations leading to a steady influx of people coming to Andorra for cheap alcohol and cigarettes. This has led to some very interesting shops peddling their tax-free goods.

I would never usually suggest shopping as an activity to do while travelling, it’s just not my style, but Caves Manacor is something that needs to be seen to be believed.  Categorised on Google as a supermarket, Caves Manacor is unlike any supermarket I have experienced. Three stories packed to overflowing. The first floor packed to the brim with every type of alcohol I could think of, a salami tasting wall, a cheese corner and a giant area of chocolate and lollies including chupa-chups bigger than my head. The second floor is full of copper stills and other cooking items and the third floor is reserved for tobacco products. There is not a spare space anywhere and I feel like you have to go here at least once if you are in Andorra.

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Eating

Many cafes and restaurants were closed until the ski season, but of the open eateries, Cafe La Neu was our favourite.

On our way back from Sorteny (see above) we had worked up an incredible appetite. We spotted Cafe La Neu as we drove down the hill and what a find! Some of the best food we ate in Andorra was at this cafe and the price was perfectly affordable. They had excellent choices for the fussy kids and vegetarians in our family. Excellent food, excellent service.

On our last day we were so sad to leave and wish we’d booked an extra few nights. Just as expected it snowed exactly one week after we had left, but we had such an amazing experience that we wouldn’t change it for anything.

Some extra travel tips for Andorra:

  • Getting there – There are no airports or trains into Andorra. You’ll need to arrive by car or bus.
  • Getting around – Hire a car. There’s a lot of buses that travel in and out of Andorra, but the best parts are best explored by car. Traffic along the main road can be a nightmare even in off-season, but car is definitely the easiest way to get around.
  • Getting off the beaten track – Try leaving the main road that heads from Spain to France. Our rock-climbing instructor told us that the true beauty of Andorra lies in the country outside of the tourist areas. It turned out he was absolutely right.

DISCLAIMER: We are not affiliated with any of these towns or attractions and were not paid nor given any free tours, accommodation or food. We paid for all these journeys with our own money and these are our own opinions. None of the links on this page are affiliate links.

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